Kiwiburger

I remember reading about the kiwiburger in Carl Shuker's Lazy Boys.
Vaguely I think it had to do with how square the protagonist's parents were.
Not really sure what it was I did a search and found out, intrigue I've made some poor substitute but am curious about it.
Also because of that book I started calling a store that sold mainly beer and wine a "bottle store".

Good book; check it out.